that represent Montreal's unique spirit. The first, at the high-end
of the spectrum, is 'L'Express' on St.Denis, made up of local Quebec
celebrities and the French business hierarchy. The other, situated
on an unglamorous strip of Ontario Street, in the heart of the Gay
village, across from a gas station, is 'Au Petit Extra'. It has been
the haunt of the Plateau Mont Royal smart set for close to 20 years.
Considering the location is a little off the beaten track, and
parking is almost non-existant, the dining room is always crowded.
So much so that we sipped wine at the bar, the ideal spot for soaking
up the ambiance, while they prepped our table. Dinner here is like
a big party, packed to the rafters with jovial regulars. This expansive
neighborhood bistro has always been remarkably warm and friendly.
Though I had not dined at 'Au Petit Extra' before, once seated,
I'm transported to Paris. The claw-footed banquettes, black-lacquered
bistro chairs, blackboards and large ornate mirrors would have me
believing Carole Bouquet and Gérard Depardieu might be sharing
a bottle of Bordeaux at a corner table. Picture the movie 'Something's
Gotta Give' starring Jack Nicholson and Diane Keaton. Close to the
end of the film, while in Paris, Jack interrupts Keaton and Keanu
Reeves celebrating a birthday at a bistro . . . that's 'Au Petit
Extra'. You look outside and you think it's 'rue du Bois de Boulogne'.
Yet, if this was Paris, the waitress would be miffed at my request
for a larger wine glass, instead Frenchwoman Francine met my request
with a gracious, 'Bien sur . . . M. Franck'.
True to bistro form, 'Au Petit Extra', offers an impressive wine
list comprising of well-priced French bottles including some privately
imported goodies. With Francine's help we chose 'La Madera' St.Chinian,
a dynamic little red well-suited to the variety of dishes. St.Chinian
is a region or appellation, that produces very harsh wines, a little
coarse, according to one dinner companion. A good bottle of wine is
an excellent opportunity to elevate your meal a notch or two.
'And wine can of their wits the wise beguile, make the sage frolic,
and the serious smile.' ~ Alexander Pope
With the wine she brings baskets of bread, which they bake in the
kitchen. Sinful! The meal kicks off with a choice of soup or salad.
In my opinion, the better choice is salad which is topped with grilled
vegetables. The appetizer lineup counts a half-dozen dishes, including
a pleasant snail sauté enhanced with a tomato compote. The most
successful dishes are the house classics, a creamy and perfectly
seasoned 'torchon de foie gras volaille', and a 'salade de chévre'
consisting of a generous round of grilled goat's cheese paired with
a green salad laced with mustard vinaigrette.
Main courses are also simple and classic bistro favorites, along
with some newer additions. 'Pavé de thon rouge au sesame', every bite
offers fresh and vibrant flavors complemented by the various textures
of the fish.
'Even more importantly, it's wine, food and the arts. Incorporating
those three enhances the quality of life.' ~ Robert Mondavi
A meal at 'Au Petit Extra' is about much more than the food. Dinner
here is about ambiance, unwinding, and soaking up that cool Gallic
dynamic Montreal has over any city in North America. It's about
French waiters speaking to you in French, comely waitresses sporting
a long no-shape black dress with chunky shoes. Diners ranging from
families to couples meeting for dinner after work who look as though
they haven't a care in the world other than which wine goes best
with their 'gigot d'agneau'. Given 'Au Petit Extra's genuine
joie-de-vivre, I plan to re-examine as frequent as possible.
* From Where I Sit!
www.fromwhereisit.co
October 30, 2006
* Bistro Au Petit Extra
1690 Ontario St. E.
Montréal, H2L 1S7
(514) 527-5552
www.aupetitextra.com/petitextra/fr
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