Restaurant Review - 'Globe Restaurant'‏

After a prolonged absence, I returned to a familiar place.
Saturday, prior to the Harry Connick Jr. show a the Montreal
Jazz Festival, I partook in a most splendid dining experience
on the Main. Due to some major road repair, not much of
a Main, but definitely worth the slight inconvenience.
On a summer's night, there's no missing the long series of
restaurants between Sherbrooke St. and Pine Ave. vying for
your attention. With all the action, eye candy and enticing
food, one wonders how to pick and choose. Is it the space with
the most cutting-edge decor? The restaurant, known for it's
solid cuisine? Or is it the hot spot that boasts the latest
celebrity sightings? With their comely waitresses, groovy
colour schemes, and up-to-the-minute menus, Globe has always
been considered 'hot' on all these fronts. While some of its
competitors have cuter waitresses and better chairs, Globe
always succeeded by offering the full package. For a while
the food wasn't up-to-par, until this night. A return to
what made Globe unique, the inventiveness of the cuisine.
There's a special connection, a bond, if you will, between
Globe and myself, along with my extended family. My nieces
have been celebrating their birthdays there, since turning
eighteen, with each inviting their respective entourages.
Then there's my Godchild, who at the tender age of 5, had
the then-chef prepare for her a special plate of pasta (not
on the menu). Which she always adored him for it and showed
it by showeing him with hugs and a kiss. He would always
take her their famous 'Tourte au Chocolat' to enjoy at the
bar, while I savored my cigar. You see children, once upon
a time, smoking, even a cigar, was tolerated at Globe. The
good old days!
The present kitchen c.e.o., Alex Rolland, who hails from
Rosalie and who interned under the great David McMillan,
has returned the Globe to its former glory and rightful
place above the fray of restaurants, bistros, and ristorantes,
all along the strip. Along with a new chef de cuisine,
comes a refreshed ambiance, a new look for the waitresses,
and the sense of a new beginning for this landmark eatery.
Due to time constraints we dined at 6:00, a first for me.
Sitting next to the large panoramic windows along the sidewalk,
in daylight, watching passers-by, ranging from both extremes
of the social spectrum, über-babes to street urchins. I was
transported back to a time when I was living in Puerto Vallarta.
On the main artery called Calle Guarez, which stretched from
one end of downtown to the other, facing the ocean, was one
of the more hip hot spots, Casablanca. We would always begin
our evenings there, before moving on to clubs and other
nightspots. This place had the same large windows, where you
would sit and have 'Nachos con Queso', with your Corona, and
watch passers-by, mostly tourists, scurrying to their destinations,
with their arms filled with bags, from neighboring merchants.
All the while, catching the final stages of the setting sun
into the Pacific ocean. The atmosphere was palpable, albeit
no sunset or ocean.
Globe's cuisine exploits organic and local produce to its
fullest. This kitchen lets the quality of ingredients do the
talking. In that sense, the 'Foie gras Spring roll' on a bed
of salad was sublime and best epitomizes what this restaurant
is all about, sophisticated simplicity. The 'Goat Cheese on
a Tomato confit' covered with slight shavings of pear, was
divine. 'Soft-shell Crab Carapace' was actually constructed
to resemble an actual crab. Very artistic. The 'Maigret de
Canard' pristine thin slivers of duck breast glazed, with
Juniper, perfectly seared on both sides. Every morsel is melting
and fresh. I abhor meat that's so rare and bloody, you expect
it to get up and walk away at any given moment.
The wine list is well-selected and our choice, a rather
intense purple-red wine, from Tuscany, features an exuberant
nose, exhaling perfumes of raspberry, pastry and eucalyptus.
Subtle aromas of cocoa and freshly ground black pepper, were
also present. Gorgeous waitresses, models and actresses-in-
waiting are practically a hallmark of Globe. Our waitress,
Jennifer, easily fits that description, with charm and
professionalism to spare. As the crowds prove, Globe remains
the perfect choice if you're up for the hullabaloo of the
St. Laurent scene.

* Globe Restaurant
3455 St.Laurent Blvd.
Montréal
(514) 284-3823
www.restaurantglobe.com

* Reviewed July 5, 2007