Restaurant Review - 'Joe Beef' ****‏

The name conjures up a steakhouse, but actually there's history
behind 'Joe Beef'. The name is in fact that of Charles McKiernan,
a legendary 19th century Montreal innkeeper and working-class
hero who offered food and shelter at his Old Montreal tavern
(the building still stands at the corner of de la Commune and
de Calière). Stragglers, longshoreman, beggars and outcasts
were admitted to Joe Beef's Canteen in exchange for a bit of
light labor. 'Joe Beef' was a man of the people.'
After many months of anticipation and waiting for the right
occasion and companions, we ventured forth. We were not
disappointed; it's everything you thought it would be and more.
The place, itself, isn't 'tres chic', coming from Globe and
Rosalie, you would have expected something else. But the reason
one goes, isn't for fancy decor, place settings and cutlery,
it's for the gastronomic explosion. And we exploded!
Dinner at Joe Beef is like being at a dinner party, so tight
are the tables, so genial is the vibe. You chit-chat with
strangers in the next tables, very easily. Swapping stories
and enjoying more than a few giggles with our friends, as you
would at a dinner party. Your host to this shindig is none
other than Montreal's most personable chef, David McMillan,
who co-owns with two old friends, Frederic Morin (also from
the Globe, who was away in Europe) and manager Allison Cunningham.
Opened for a year or so, Joe Beef has generated so much buzz,
that it's the envy of any restaurateur.
How did this trio come together? After a decade cooking for
the 'branché' and other celebs at Globe and Rosalie, McMillan
and Morin had had their fill. Ready to kiss the restaurant
business good-bye, they decided instead to take over their
neighborhood hangout, a little café on Notre Dame. But this
time there would be strict rules. The restaurant would have
to be small, and would only be open for dinner, five days
a week. McMillan and Morin would cook only what they wanted
and the menu would change daily. The wine list would be small,
but interesting.
They decided to look to the past for inspiration. The first
was the name and the second glance backward is the menu. Oysters
were a staple in McKiernan's day and are a favorite of both
chefs. Joe Beef sells a good 4,000 east-and-west-coast oysters
weekly, imported directly for the restaurant. So we indulged,
and partook of 3 dozens served on an expansive tray topped
with crushed ice. One of the starters, 'Parfait de Foie Gras',
served with pain rustique, is highly recommended. McMillan
will come over with homemade jam for you to spread. Mussles,
which according to my companion, were finger-licking delicious.
Though this food is far from flashy, I can't think of much
tasted here that I didn't thoroughly enjoy.
By main-course time, we were stuffed, and the crowds pick
up. They're preparing for the second seating, which is 9:30.
We meet a restaurateur, from one of the finer eateries in
Little Italy. He confessed curiosity got him to come and see
what the fuss was about. By the end of the dinner he smiled
and gave me a nod, of pure contentment. The 'Lapin Farcie'
with something only McMillan could pull off, sliced hot-dogs
toppings. My friend's steak, served with these delicious
circular fries, was mouth-watering, cooked just right, and
not too rare. The other fabulous dish were these cutlets topped
with mounds of scallops. Unbelievable! Desserts are another
sinful chef-d'oeuvre. I think 'Joe Beef' would have approved.
After all, that's why his legend is still with us a century
later. Like these young restaurateurs, he did it his way.


* Restaurant Joe Beef ****
2491, rue Notre Dame O. @ Atwater
Little Burgundy, H3J 1N6
(514) 935-6504
www.joebeef.com