the heart of downtown this latest luncheon was a place recommended
by a dear friend…I love all that that word 'Luncheon' implies. It
signifies a time long ago and far away when ladies wore beautiful
dresses and men in business suits frequented the eateries in swanky
hotels along the boulevards of Manhattan. I looked over my shoulder
on several occasions expecting to see Holly Golightly and Truman
Capote to come waltzing in and take the little bistro table next to
ours. Even the name implies an inner circle, exclusive enclave or
hideaway somewhere in Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris... the kind
of place Alain Delon and Romy Schneider came when they began dating.
'La Société Bistro' is the kind of establishment that takes you back
to that 'Golden Age'... and it did not disappoint.
It definitely resembles higher-end dining, but La Société also adds
small touches to give it a sense of trendiness as well like its picture-
covered walls and chandeliers. A little 'easter egg' in the design of the
restaurant is the colour of the walls. They chose a yellowish white
because the walls of bistros in Paris were originally white, but due to
all the smoking indoors, could only be that particular colour once they
were extensively cleaned.
I remember having lunch back in the 1990s' when it was 'Chez Georges'...
they were friends of Bombshell's mum. Last I drove by, looked inside,
it sat empty while the luxurious hotel continued to rank highly with
visitors. Montreal hotels generally don't have good restaurant, but
considering the Vogue's location right in the heart of the downtown
core; it seemed a waste not to fill the space, especially considering the
captive audience of tourists and business types who are happy to dine
in their hotel before heading to bed.
The original 'La Société Bistro' is located in Toronto and has been
going strong for several years... and is generally lauded as a great
place to eat, drink and party — especially during TIFF (Toronto
International Film Festival) time. Owned by the CEO of INK
Entertainment, Charles Khabouth (the biggest individual restaurant
and nightclub owner in Toronto), 'La Société Bistro' is a Toronto import,
a first in our fair city.
As I looked around the entranceway...I was once again transported…
this is a beautiful space. No expense has been spared. 'La Société
Bistro' has been given the Parisian bistro treatment complete with
a stained-glass ceiling, zinc bar, marble-topped service stations,
wooden tables and chairs, silverware and white porcelain plates...
and the most gorgeous black-and-white tiled floor I've seen since
my own bistro eons ago... The background Buddha Bar-like music
was an added bonus... and very soothing, though I would have expected
some Charles Aznavour, Serge Gainsbourg or Yves Montand… but
I digress.
Our server, a lovely young woman with an impressive décolletage,
was sweet and cordial. My luncheon companion and I love to order
and then share... it is a more diverse experience…so we began with
a green salad with Champagne vinaigrette. Morsels of 'Jambon de
Bayonne' served with breadsticks. The ham is air dried and salted
that takes its name from the ancient port city of Bayonne in the far
south west of France. But the 'pièce de resistance'... a positively
all-encompassing delight of the senses was the 'Club au homard'.
Thick slices of lobster meat from the tail and claws into crosswise
pieces, tomato slices, and avocado on grilled (baked on the premises)
brioche slices so thick you had to get involved in the consumption
of with both hands. The dish was accompanied by a very satisfying
serving of fries with sweet parsnip deploying their flavor when
accompanied by a creamy aioli infused with Dijon mustard and garlic
is a pure Provencal tradition.
When then moved to the bar where we met the general manager,
a delightful woman, Tina Faouaz, and the chef, Sean Reeve, who
reminded me of Martin Picard from 'Au Pied de Cochon'. After… we
enjoyed our espresso with homemade 'beignets' and vanilla ice
cream... and topped it with a chilled Proseco. It was a splendid
afternoon, but I was reminded that those ladies who lunched long
ago... were women of leisure.
* From Where I Sit!
www.fromwhereisit.co
August 8, 2014
* La Société Bistro @ Loews Hotel Vogue
1415, rue de la Montagne
Montreal, H3G 1Z3
(514) 507-9223
www.lasociete.ca
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