"After nourishment, shelter and companionship, stories are the thing we need most in
the world." ~ Philip Pullman
The theme for this latest gathering of bon vivants was 'Storyteller's Soirée' so let
me begin by telling you a story. Once upon a time I was a young, somewhat good
looking, man-about-town with an abundance of confidence... some use to say I was
'cocky and arrogant'. In the many forays of late night gallivanting, I met a beautiful,
enchanting, and sophisticated 'Femme Fatale'... who, for the sake of this story we'll
call her 'Ursula'.
This high-society dame's maternal great-grandmother was European royalty from one of
those countries that was annexed to the Soviet Union after World War II. When she walked,
or rather swayed into a room everyone stopped...turned and followed her every movement.
She paraded her slinky self with such confidence; it was the female version of yours
truly. Her dresses or skirts had a slit down one side that would be very tantalizing to
any observer within visual distance for those spectacular set of stems à la Marlene Dietrich.
Whenever she summoned, I humbly and most happily serviced her every whim and
caprice to the best of my ability… and her delight. I was the poster-child for confidence…
except when it applied to her. I would regress back to that nervous little schoolboy
about to lose his virginity. Friday night at Cavalli... I had that same knot in my gut.
Although I have been having these dinner parties for the past ten years it felt fresh
and exciting... because it was the first one back at the NEW Ristorante Cavalli.
"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, cigar in one hand,
wine in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming, "Woo! What a ride!"
Let me first welcome a nubile into the fold, Christiane Kanaan... she oozed sensuality.
I truly am enthralled by her deliciousness and scent that emanated from that body.
After a prolonged absence, Filomena (Fil) is back and along with another long lost
soul who also made the trek Giovanna. Watching them catch-up with each other made me
warm all over. There was camaraderie within this diverse group that was ethereal.
What started quietly enough, and with little fanfare, in no time, spawn into
quite a raucous time and a most enlightened evening. The chairs filled, ladies came,
gentlemen (the female to male ratio was closer then ever before) and veterans and
newcomers, alike, mingled like it was routine, and no time had passed.
As is the case with each dinner party, the dynamics and especially the landscape changes
and every time I am slightly surprised at the scope of the guests and their immediate
amiability. This group, my group ... somewhat fresh ensemble, keeps evolving... to my
delight. I'm a big proponent of evolution. It's similar to an ever-changing, living
organism that grows as it absorbs particles it picks up along its journey. I believe
the Candidate's presence was such a particle, which added a whole other dimension. To
be in the company of an individual with such grand aspirations is humbling... a person
who's desire is to serve at the public's behest is noble.
The following are my observations of a most profound gastronomic gathering at the Food
Porn Palace. Kudos to chef extraordinaire Frank Gioffre... a culinary God! The dishes
were magnificent... an entire slice, not a cut, above anything and/or anywhere else.
Since they re-opened the food has improved... if that was at all possible! They say
the measure of a great restaurant is the consistency of its dishes... that dictum was
written for Cavalli…and the dance of dishes commenced.
Shrimp tempura, a staple at Cavalli. Light golden, slightly battered, and oh so
delicious. Then it was the always tangy oysters 'Wasabi con Limone' lime mustard, tobiko
and Prosecco. They got slurped up in a flash. 'Tuna sashimi' with celery leaves, green
olives, shallot, and spicy lemon with mayo capers, a new discovery. Another one of the
newer additions was the 'Burrata and heirloom tomatoes caprese' with figs, arugula,
prosciutto crudo di Parma and grilled pine nut focaccia… and a new favorite appetizer...
soft, moist, and not cheesy at all. The salmon tartare with kimchee sauce, pickled beets,
cucumber cigar and avocado cream, was sweet and perfectly seasoned. Grilled mackerel and
octopus with eggplant, caviar, tomato-oregano salad and kalamata olives was another dish
that combined flavors that are unlike anything you've had. So good, the dish was spotless
afterward.
The first course 'Maccheroni' with fontina, cheddar and black truffle purée, with
brioche bread crumbs and black pepper... was like sex on a plate! To clear the palette,
we enjoyed the 'Endives' salad with radicchio and arugual, mango bacon, pecorino and
sprinkled with pistachio vinaigrette.
The meal continued in the same manner with a trio of superb main dishes that typifies
the simplicity of the kitchen... The inspired sea bass on a bed of crab, cucumber and
avocado salad, sticky rice, with a Wasabi Tobiko ginger/coriander emulsion. Pepper
crusted tuna, with braised lentils, caponata and pine nuts emulsion was a delight to
the senses... sweet and tangy. Lamb chops with roasted carrots, grilled banana pepper
and feta salsa. Perfectly grilled... bloody but did not look like they could walk away.
That flew off the plate quicker than the plates arrived.
Later, following the dinner, while people were coming and going for a smoke, I observed
little niches that had formed, huddled together, in delight of the evening, exchanging
thoughts and ideas. The Candidate was recruiting support from the Jazz Singer, and
her lovely friend. Vin Diesel, Domenic and Wendy going head-to-head on several subjects,
and the delightful Antonella... who comes in with a smile that becomes contagious.
Somebody once said, "Life's euphoria consists of little moments, you steal away from
the mundane". The 'Storyteller's Soirée' was such a moment that makes me as I'm as
happy has a little girl!
Your Cruise Director
Food is my Compass
www.fromwhereisit.co
August 1st, 2014
* Ristorante Cavalli
2042 Peel St.
Montreal, H3A 2R4
(514) 843-5100
www.ristorantecavalli.com
* 'Cruising' by Fabian Perez
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